Monday, June 2, 2008

St Mark

In preparation for Egypt, the Fulbright group met for three 8-hour orientations. Not only was a great chance to meet everyone on the trip and go over practical matters, but we also had guest speakers on various aspects of Middle Eastern/Egyptian history, culture and politics. Dr. Joy Lapp gave a talk on Coptic Christianity, which peaked my interest as I was teaching a class on Byzantine Art.

The word "coptic" linguistically comes from the Greek word meaning, "Egyptian." The Coptic Church (also known as the Coptic Orthodox Church of Alexandria) split from Christianity in 451, over the nature of Christ. The Church regarded Christ of having two natures, one divine and one human. The Coptic Church regarded Christ as Monophysite, there being one nature of Christ that was both human and divine. One of the most important saints in the Coptic Church is St. Mark, the Evangelist, as it is believed that he introduced Christianity to Egypt. His relic were located in Alexandria until the two Venetian tradesmen stole/borrowed/pilfered the relics in the 800's and brought them to Venice to be housed in the Basilica of San Marco. Some of the relics have now been returned to the St. Mark's Cathedral in Cairo.


It was there sitting in the orientation that I realized that was going to all three sites: Venice, Cairo and Alexandria. What are the chances of that?

So I started to do a little research on St. Mark, and in one of my Google searches I found out that there is a St. Mark's Coptic Church right here in Denver. Originally, I was going to get in contact with the Priest, maybe take some photos, etc. But as we're leaving this Thursday, I really didn't think I would have time.

Then Saturday night I had a long conversation with a dear friend, and I was telling her about the St. Mark aspect of the trip, including the fact that there was one here in Denver. "Oh, Christine, you have to go! This is a sign!" Her faith was always stronger than mine, and I did have to agree, I really should go. But the lazy, I-rather-sleep-in-on-Sunday-morning side of me, complained. At 11:30 Saturday night I went their web site to see what time services started - 8:30. And this Sunday's feast day?

"Entry of the Lord into Egypt"

Ok, ok, I'll go.

8:30 the next morning I was there, but no one else was. A very kind family parked their car a long-side mine and said that services didn't start until 9, but I was welcome to come in and watch a baptism.

The church was on the small side, an older church whose original congregation move on to larger complex. In front of the altar, there was an iconostatis, with icons of various saints. The baptism took place in a small room in the back with a utilitarian baptismal. I was asked to take off my shoes, symbolizing a holy event taking place on sacred ground. At first everyone faced West, as the parents recited prayers that rejected evil. We all then turned to the East, raising our right hand to bring God closer to this beautiful baby. She was then placed in the holy water, and fussed like all babies do. Her baptismal name? Catherine. (This is where my Byzantine Art students gasp, as they are reminded of St. Catherine's Monastery at Mount Sinai and the fact that I was hoping all semester that I would be able to go there. Another sign.)

The three-hour (!!) service was lovely; a mixture of English and Arabic in chanting and prayers. There was a procession of the Holy Icon around the church with chanting, banners and incense; and later a second procession with Baby Catherine as the sacred one. Even when I couldn't understand the Arabic prayers, the realization came that I am actually going to Egypt. A year ago, heck, nine months ago, I had no clue what was about to happen in my life. And now I'm about to embark on a journey of epic proportions. This still baffles me, how did I get so lucky? Why me?

After the baptism, as I waited for the services to begin, I was looking through the lectionary and found this (I know this is a bad photo, but it very hard to take a photo in a church and not appear obvious.):




Pray for our fathers and our brethren who are traveling and those who intend to travel anywhere, that God may straighten all their ways, whether by sea, rivers, lakes, roads [air] or those who are traveling by any other means that Christ our God may bring them back to their own homes in peace and forgive our sins.


Amen.

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